Generator Sizing Guide: How Many Watts Do You Actually Need?
Calculate generator wattage for home backup or job site use. Covers running vs. starting watts, essential circuit loads, and the difference between portable and whole-home standby generators.
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Running Watts vs. Starting Watts
Generator capacity is described in two numbers:
Running watts (rated watts): The continuous power the generator can supply. This is the primary spec — it determines whether the generator can run your loads simultaneously.
Starting watts (surge watts): The peak power available for 1–2 seconds when a motor starts. Electric motors draw 2–3× their running wattage during startup.
The sizing rule: Your total running load must not exceed the generator's running watt rating. The highest single-motor starting surge must not exceed the generator's starting watt rating.
Example: Running a refrigerator (200W run / 800W start) and a 1/3 HP sump pump (300W run / 900W start) simultaneously: - Running load: 200 + 300 = 500W - Starting surge: 200 (running fridge) + 900 (starting pump) = 1,100W - Required generator: 1,000W+ running, 1,500W+ starting → a 2,000W generator handles this comfortably
Essential Load Estimates
Generator Size Recommendations by Scenario
Essential circuit coverage (refrigerator, lights, phone chargers, sump pump): → 3,500–5,000W portable generator
Essential circuits + window AC or window unit heating: → 5,000–7,500W portable generator
Whole-home backup without electric heat: → 12,000–16,000W standby generator
Whole-home including central AC: → 20,000–22,000W standby generator
Portable vs. Whole-Home Standby Generators
For homes with medical equipment (oxygen concentrators, CPAP machines), automatic standby generators are the safer choice — they power on within seconds of an outage, while portable generators require manual startup and extension cord or transfer switch setup.
Transfer Switches: The Safe Way to Connect
Running a portable generator through extension cords is safe for direct-connected appliances but can't power hardwired systems (central heat, well pump, sump pump) or whole-home lighting circuits.
Manual transfer switch ($200–$500): A sub-panel with selected circuits that can be switched from utility to generator power. Requires an electrician to install.
Interlock kit ($50–$200): A mechanical lock that ensures your main breaker and generator breaker cannot both be on simultaneously. Cheaper than a transfer switch but less flexible.
Never backfeed power into the utility grid through your main panel without a proper transfer switch — this is a felony in many states and has killed utility workers restoring power.
Fuel Considerations
- Gasoline: Most common for portable generators. Degrades in 30 days without stabilizer; 1–2 year shelf life with stabilizer. Readily available.
- Propane: Longer shelf life than gas, cleaner burning, but requires a propane tank. Many dual-fuel generators support both gasoline and propane.
- Natural gas: Continuous supply for standby generators. Pressure issues during widespread outages can affect supply.
- Diesel: Most efficient at high continuous loads; used for commercial standby systems.
Add 20% Safety Margin
After calculating your load, add 20% to the running watts before selecting generator size. This accounts for load variation, generator derating in hot weather (generators produce less power as ambient temperature rises), and future added loads.
Related Guides
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Frequently Asked Questions
- What size generator do I need for a house?
- For essential circuits (refrigerator, lights, sump pump, phone chargers), a 3,500–5,000W portable generator is sufficient. To run central air conditioning as well, you need 12,000–20,000W. A whole-home automatic standby generator typically requires 20,000–22,000W.
- What is the difference between running watts and starting watts?
- Running watts is the continuous power a generator produces. Starting watts (surge watts) is the brief peak power available for 1–2 seconds when a motor starts up — typically 2–3× the running wattage. Your total running load must stay below the generator's running rating; each motor's starting surge must not exceed the starting watt rating.
- Can I run a generator inside a garage?
- No. Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO), a colorless, odorless gas that kills within minutes at high concentrations. Run generators at least 20 feet from any doors, windows, or vents — and never inside a garage, even with the door open. Install battery-powered CO detectors on every level of your home.
- Do I need a transfer switch to use a generator?
- For directly plugging appliances into extension cords: no transfer switch needed. For powering hardwired appliances (furnace, well pump, home circuits): yes, a transfer switch or interlock kit is required by the NEC and essential for safety. Never backfeed a generator into your home's main panel without a proper transfer switch.
- How long can a portable generator run continuously?
- Most portable generators run 8–12 hours per tank of gasoline. Let the generator cool for 30 minutes before refueling, and never add fuel to a running or hot generator. Natural gas and propane standby generators can run continuously as long as fuel is available — typically the limiting factor is manufacturer-recommended maintenance intervals (usually 24 hours of run time for an oil check).
Last updated 7/28/2026